Vardzia. ვარძია
Vardzia was a largely populated cave dwelling in the 12th Century, period in which the Queen Tamar was regent. But studies have shown that it was already inhabited in the Bronze Age.
This extensive settlement is placed in a very strategic site, at the entrance of a gorge not too far from the Turkish border on the south, and ending at Khertvisi, on the northern side, where a very nice fortress is also still standing (see below).It is by these tiny and treacherous staircases that the inhabitants of Vardzia navigated.
The dwellings are of great size, and are more than comfortable. Imagine that the outsides were covered with skins and rugs that closed the rooms from the elements, and you can picture the beauty that this must have produced. |
| sitting area and a fire pit clearly visible |
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| a fantastic door |
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| These date from the 11th Century |
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| Vardzia is at present a monastery manned by a handful of monks One of them...had a cell phone! Talk about anachronistic here! |
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| the church of the Domition with its beautiful drawings "secco" |
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| The strategic view point is evident |
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| warning: very narrow and treacherous stairs! |
If you are claustrophobic, do not attempt the inner circuit, because you will necessarily have to go through long, narrow tunnels underground. It freaked me out a bit at the end. It is better to go the way you came, rather than taking the tunnels. They are interesting, however..
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| Khertvisi |
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| Khertvisi |
On the way back toward Akhaltsikhe, stop and climb the fortress of Khertvisi. It was the other line of defense for the people of Vardzia. It is said that it was destroyed by Alexander the Great. The original fortress dates from the 2nd Century, but the present edifice is from the 13th Century. It was operational all through the medieval period, and it known as the oldest fortress in Georgia.
Beautiful place, and very quiet.
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| The fortress of Khertvisi on the river Mktvari |
Travel notes:
Although there is a small restaurant at the foot of the monument, the site is quite out of the way, and about 60 km from the town of Akhaltsikhe. The roads have been redone recently and are ok with a minibus. You might want to eat lunch in Akhaltsikhe, and not depend on the restaurant, unless you can manage to make a reservation, but knowing the system, that might also be a source of problem. In any case, take some water with you to make the climb to the top.
The entrance fee, price 2018, is of 7 Lari, or GEL
The entrance fee, price 2018, is of 7 Lari, or GEL
So glad you came to visit.
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