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Wine harvest in Georgia

The great wine of Kakheti, Georgia!

Wine, glorious wine!

The Georgians will tell you; they were the first to make wine. It is true that wine, grapes and all paraphernalia related to wine-making are omnipresent in the Republic of Georgia. The evidence is everywhere. Ancient markings on churches and monuments, on tombstones, wrought-iron decors of all kinds, horns in which to savor your favorite, grapes growing on every balcony, some with incredible grape stock so large you wonder how old it can be, grapes on every market stall, it is for sure that you cannot disassociate wine and the Georgians.

harvesting rkatsiteli in Koda

However, present him with his favorite and national dish, a steaming dish of khinkali, and he will instantly grab a beer... It does go better with ludi, I agree..

On the planet of wine below, you see Koda's rkatsiteli grapes having been through the wringer. How will this wine be in a year? Only time will tell..

Harvest is upon the Georgians once more. Will this particularly dry summer bring a superb wine? No doubt! Families who share rows of grapes in the countryside are getting organized to gather together and cut the grapes. Soon, Tbilisoba will happen and churchkhela will be made, dipping strings of walnuts hazelnuts and other goodies in tatara, a mixture of grape juice, flour and sugar. Msvadi, bbqs will be roasted on the coals and accompanied by a great deal of wine. All will be processed, and in the end, you will drink a super Saperavi(red) or a Rkatsiteli(white), or make a toast with a shot of Chacha. Then, the long winter will start..the qvevri will be full of the golden or red liquid resting until it comes to maturity.

Planet Rvino...

Grapes will be put through the wringer in this!

Rkatsiteli grapes will become a great honey-colored wine

All over Georgia, the harvest is being organized. Soon we go to the region of Kakheti and experience the flavors, the sights and the delicious result!

But first...Koda-oba.

In Koda, the ancestral village of the B.family, a plot is tended by the members, and grapes are collected for the year's supply of wine. This was an extremely dry year, and only about 100 kilos of grapes came out of the 6 family rows. The grapes are never watered, and this year, they suffered from the extremely dry weather. More grapes will be purchased to add to this year's poor harvest, in order to have enough homemade wine for the coming year.

It's family business!

Beautiful honey color!

The grapes are put through a wringer to crush them, put into a barrel for a week, then the liquid is drained, and put into large bottles. The skins are left in the barrel and sugar is added. After a few days, when it ferments and bubbles, the pulp is used to make the powerful chacha, white if plainly distilled, or a golden brown when kept in an oak barrel after distillation. It is then called cognaki, or Cognac, and resembles the French Cognac .

The grape juice in the large bottles is emptied and filtered several times, to remove the pulp that would make the wine less pure. It is then allowed to rest.

The rkatsiteli grapes give a golden hue to the wine. No sulfates are added, it is pure wine. .

That is one traditional method. But of course, the method of keeping the wine in a qvevri differs a bit.

Let's go to Kakheti and see how it's done!
In Katheti, as well as in all other places in Georgia, wine is being processed in q'vevris, and in barrels. The traditional way of keeping wine in q'vevris is getting a boost these days, as it it particularly prized by tourists, and so contributes not only to the pleasure of the visitors, and to the national heritage, but also the economy in general.

Grapes being brought to
Khareba Winery, Kakheti

A marani prior to the filling up stage
and a beautiful Georgian to boot!

At the Twins Cellar, in Napareuli,
each of the 100 + qvevris is being filled
with up to 6 tons of pressed grapes

A marani is a set of q'vevris that are literally buried in a trench, then held straight and then covered with soil.

This pulp is what is left after
the distilled "chacha" has been made.

The marani looks like a cellar, where the wine caskets are below your feet! It is quite impressive to see how the caskets are filled to the rim with the wine! Others wait to become chacha and the smells of the grapes skins in fermentation fill the room. In Napareuli, in Kakheti, the Twins Cellar, a rather small organization compared to huge competitors in the region, turns out 280 000 liters of wine per year.

The Khareba Winery, a local winery also referred to as Gvirabi, because it stands for "tunnel", holds an immense reserve of wines, mainly kept in barrels and other massive vessels from the soviet age. A little dark to take good pics in there, but a great place for tourists! In this picture, you see one of those great big vessels. The wine is actually carried in the pipes that you see going down the tunnel. It is impressive. The only drawback is that the wine tasting here is made of ...European wines!!

Remnant of the Soviet era.
A great wine vessel..

You can buy their wines close to Irakli II place in Tbilisi, where they have a wine-tasting room and no doubt at the winery...
In the gvirabi, you will see a variety of ancient and modern tools used in wine making, as well as some of their wines. It is definitely a must-see! This is not the q'vevri method, however!

Napareuli's winery is interesting in the way that it is set-up. I do not recommend staying there, simply because the food and lodging were average in quality and above average in price, and the mosquitoes brought on in the chacha making season were awful. The rooms are situated right above the marani, and they smelled of alcohol. Touring the museum can be of interest. Disregard the poor English translations, for the information is actually quite good.

Visualize the fermentation process
in Napareuli Twins Cellar.

Don't leave home without it!!

The Bounties of Kakheti!

Walking the walk...Tbilisi, one step at a time..

It is by walking the streets that you start to understand the lives of the people. Taking the underground, shopping for your daily meal, or just looking around, there is nothing better than that to absorb the beauty of a country.

beautiful balconies near Pushkin street

In Tbilisi, there is so much to see..
Next week, I will start with Sololaki for a great photo safari. We are in search of beauty and realism. Luka will be my companion, tchemi patara pedagogi.

Rustaveli, an inspiration to all

Here is a slice of what we discovered already in the great Georgian khatchapuri pie...

fruits, veggies and all kinds of goodies

grapes in downtown Tbilisi

still don't know what that is, but it is cool.

wow..

China is so much closer here..

The bazaris, or open-air markets, are going to disappear soon, as the government is trying to bring in more shopping centers with big names such as Carrefour, Zara, H&M, etc..For now, they are what remains of the great Silk Road, a mixture of goods from all over, and also, and especially close to my heart, local products made by local people. Give a pair of knitted Georgian socks anytime, rather than a Chinese or European knock-off version!

wool and other yarns. Vagzlis Bazari/Didube

One of greatest things to do is to go to Vagzlis Bazari, (check this page of our blog for info on this market) and look at the gold! It comes from all over, at great prices. Gold here has a beautiful copper hue, and we all know what the Kartvelis have done to gold in the last centuries. They are absolute experts, and their work is absolutely flawless. Don't miss the gold in the Janashia National Museum.

Sitting on the balcony on a summer or fall evening, as temperatures slowly fall, is delightful. A lot of Georgians move their beds to the balconies in the summer, to escape the sweltering heat of the day. Today, September 13th, 2014, it is still 30+ Celsius.. Great if you arrive from Northern Europe, where I have already taken out my sheepskin slippers out..

so pretty

A mixture of ancient, very ancient, and very modern is what makes Tbilisi such an interesting place to visit. The Bridge of Peace is one of those examples that bridges modern and ancient, going from the park of Rike, with its ultra modern additions, to Kala, and the Charden district, or Old Town. The harmonious lines of the bridge do not alter the landscape, but rather....bridge it...

The bridge of Peace

This walk is not for the weak at heart.
On the way to Betlemis Eklesia.

The beautiful golden statue of George

slaying the dragon on the main plaza,

called "tavisuplebis moedani",

or Freedom Square.

First, let's take the metro. Wow, scary, dude!! In order to get to that first step down..or up, obviously, you will need to buy a card that will allow you to go through the turnstile. The cards are available for a couple of laris (GEL) and you can refill it with cash anytime. Nowadays, some machine will refill your card at a sort of ATM. The first card is still usually bought at the desk in front of the dreaded steps. You can use your card for several people, it is not nominative. It used to be money was ok, but now the system is such that you can also use the card on all public transport systems, even the little marshrootkas/minibuses that go around town. Those, as I understand, will slowly disappear to make place for a more pollution-conscient alternative. Good, but then will it be ok to call it anywhere on the street like we can now? Don't know..
Anyway, the metro lines, for the most part, go deep within the ground. It is amazing. And...you can get in trouble with the person that is sitting watching traffic at the bottom of the elevator stairs. No pics, please! Why? Yeah, this is an "illegal" pic of an elevator. :)

Wonderful fig trees and balconies
Lemontov avenue

Here is a link to an old part of Tbilisi, called Sololaki.

On Dadiani Street, close to Freedom Square, you can see some amazing old buildings. The one above is number 8. The wall paintings are very cool. The doors are usually open since it is an apartment house.

lovely statue on
Gudiashvili Square

amazing balconies

If you make to the top of the hill, here is what awaits you.

ebony and ivory grapes,
a lovely arbor in front of Ateshgah

Ateshgah is a zoroastrian temple

On the way up the hill, by way of Asatiani street
make sure to see the Betlemi churches.
Can you find the two churches on that hill?
Keep climbing...

Zororastrianism! What a word! It is, as a matter of fact, one of the oldest religions in the world. Some of our Georgian friends are still adepts of this faith that venerates the sun. This fire temple, called Ateshgah, only open to people of this faith, is an ancient structure from the 5th or 6th century. It was transformed into a mosque around the 17th Century, but is now back in the hands of the original followers of this faith.
It is worth climbing to see it, because the way up is also a beautiful walk..

Jvaris Mama Church, at the bottom of the hill
on Ierusalimi Street

On the way back down, admire Jvaris Mama Church and Sioni. Both are very important churches in the hearts of the Georgians Orthodox. Sioni is the most impressive. Small, but magnificent. Be aware that proper clothing is mandatory. No short sleeves, shorts, short skirts, or anything...short. The ladies also cover their heads before entering what can be called the holiest of holy in Tbilisi. Respect, please.

Many weddings happen in Sioni.

Charden Street is quickly becoming a tourist trap...
but it is pretty.

Carpet store next to Sioni

Going across the Bridge of Peace and over gives you a fantastic view
of Rike Park and the Lower Caucasus Mountains

There are many areas worth visiting in Tbilisi. I recommend...all of them. The Office of Tourism can help you decide. They have absolutely all it takes to cater to all tastes. Take good sturdy shoes, as roads can be sometimes in poor state. The place is nothing but hills too, so, hills, yes...heels...no..

Happy tourism!

Of course! Was there a doubt?

Contact Giga on his Facebook page

for
a fun travel time in Georgia.

https://www.facebook.com/LuckyToursInGeorgia/

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Alaverdoba, Tbilisoba, Koda-oba, fun-oba!!!

So glad you came to visit. Please feel free to leave a comment.

Time for some solid fun!

Chuamta fountain, on the way to Kakheti.

This fall, I am making the rounds to Alaverdoba and Tbilisoba, the first weekend in October. I may even include my own, Koda-oba, as we will be going to check out the happenings in the vineyards in Koda, Tamazi's home town. The grape harvest will happen sometimes in the next week in the family's plot.
-oba is the ending added to any town that is having a festival. Alaverdi, so Alaverdoba, Tbilisi, so Tbilisoba.
Mainly, it is related to the grape harvest, but it can be a cheese festival too, any festival, really..and for Alaverdoba, it is also mainly a great religious festival. Alaverdi is well known as one of the main centers of religion in Georgia. The monks in the Alaverdi Monastery have also been growing grapes for centuries. You can see old qvevris still in front of the monastery commons.

Kakheti is one of the best known wine-growing regions of the Republic of Georgia, and a wonderful place to admire the surrounding mountains, but it not the only wine region in Georgia. In fact, you will find vineyards and wineries all over Georgia, with dozens of different types of wines. Not all are processed in clay qvevris either. Many wineries use barrels and process their grapes as Italians and French companies do.

So, are you ready for a little wine?

vineyard in Koda, SW of Tbilisi

Ready for the picking!

The grapes are held by strands of corn silk

In Koda, rkatsiteli grapes make for an amazing golden glass of wine.

going from grapes to wine in the cellar. Tbilisi 2009.

According to the owner, this is called
Chala..Looks like Saperavi to me..

The golden honey color of the wine
is famous in Georgia

home brew of tchatcha..

Flashback, Tbilisoba 2009. A taste of what is to come this year.

Food is everywhere. Msvadi, or bbq, send smoke throughout the Charden district. Bread is baking in the tonay, and churchkhrela is getting prepared. A paradise for the senses..

A mixture of grape juice,
sugar and flour, pelamushi is a great dessert

Preparation of tonis puri, or
bread in a tonay

Heating the tonay for baking

Beautiful display of Georgian fall products

In the Abanotubani district,
dancing groups gather. Here, a group from Azerbidjan.

Let the music begin!

Great displays of culture, dancing groups, singing groups, and joy all around! What fun!

Flashback Alaverdi 2013:
How will this peaceful retreat become a great wine festival, I don't know. I just know that it holds a special place in my heart..

Alaverdi Monastery, Kakheti region, Georgia

Alaverdi, with its silence, its bees and its mountains. Quiet solitude for this ancient and holy place..Now, let's add a little wine and see what it becomes..

Well, Alaverdi was so calm, that we began to wonder if the Tourist Office had deceived us..It seems like it was going to happen, that day, or this day, and so we showed up and it was empty..but gorgeous, as usual.

Beautiful Caucasus Mountains

It turns out that the dates for Alaverdoba differ greatly, since they refer to a series of masses in the church. Leave it to me to think that it was going to be a very cool festival with cars lined up and maybe Mickey showing up..This is when you remember that not everything that is planned to happen in Georgia will automatically happen at the given date..Tomorrow is ok too...So, just as Alaverdi was still, admittedly beautiful, it was empty, and Tbilisoba, which was set to happen on October 5th, is now set to the 25th! Taking time or not being in a hurry is a science, and I was never a great science student..

...on to Tbilisoba 2014 !

Thanks to my little friend, Luka, we will not go without pics of Tbilisoba. As Tamazi and I took the plane home to France, Tbilisoba was being prepared. It turned out to be HUGE! But the basics were here..You judge for yourself!

Dancing, singing, laughing
and joy all around!

rvinos kalaki, or "wine city"
The Georgian answer to the Beer Garden..

The basics were there: wine, pelamushi, or tatara (the difference, I was told, is one is made with flour and the other with corn flour.) For a great recipe, follow this link to pelamushi.

pelamushi galore...

A creamy-crunchy Georgian snack!

Churchrela can be then dipped in it, or...tatara can be eaten just as is, as Luka shows us, with a sprinkle of ....nuts, of course!! What a fun treat!