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Showing posts with label voyage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label voyage. Show all posts

Bolnisi, home of the oldest Christian church in Georgia.




BOLNISI, in Georgian ბოლნისი, in Kvemo Kartli, Georgia, is home of one of the oldest Christian churches in Georgia, dating from the 5th Century AD. It is a lovely little church that, although rather hard to reach, does deliver a sweet punch.


If you are on the way to Dmanisi, to discover who Homo Georgicus was (Yes, Homo Georgicus!!!), a little stop by Bolnisi would surely be interesting.

These old inscriptions date from 494 AD 
and feature the "asumtavruli" writing style of that period. 





The colors in the church building are just beautiful. Soft pastel greens, light pinks and oranges..
It is with pleasure that you walk around and in this lovely church. If you are a woman, please be aware that you will have to wear appropriate clothing covering your head and legs.

Wine and grapes are an integral part of Georgia. Here is a charming example..

The soft pastel colors and the delicate carvings on the windows.

It is a very small church, and the place is extremely quiet. 
Roses have been planted as a hedge.

As always, the details are what catches your eye in Georgia. 
Lovely, and delicate.


The church is of course a functioning place, and 
the little houses are there for the caretakers and priests.

Now, isn't that beautiful?
Enjoy your visit!

Contact Giga on his Facebook page 
for a fun travel time in Georgia.
or message us directly at:

Walking the walk...Tbilisi, one step at a time..



It is by walking the streets that you start to understand the lives of the people. Taking the underground, shopping for your daily meal, or just looking around, there is nothing better than that to absorb the beauty of a country.
beautiful balconies near Pushkin street
In Tbilisi, there is so much to see..
Next week, I will start with Sololaki for a great photo safari. We are in search of beauty and realism. Luka will be my companion, tchemi patara pedagogi.
Rustaveli, an inspiration to all
Here is a slice of what we discovered already in the great Georgian khatchapuri pie...
fruits, veggies and all kinds of goodies

grapes in downtown Tbilisi
still don't know what that is, but it is cool.

wow..
China is so much closer here..

The bazaris, or open-air markets, are going to disappear soon, as the government is trying to bring in more shopping centers with big names such as Carrefour, Zara, H&M, etc..For now, they are what remains of the great Silk Road, a mixture of goods from all over, and also, and especially close to my heart, local products made by local people. Give a pair of knitted Georgian socks anytime, rather than a Chinese or European knock-off version!
wool and other yarns. Vagzlis Bazari/Didube
One of greatest things to do is to go to Vagzlis Bazari, (check this page of our blog for info on this market) and look at the gold! It comes from all over, at great prices. Gold here has a beautiful copper hue, and we all know what the Kartvelis have done to gold in the last centuries. They are absolute experts, and their work is absolutely flawless. Don't miss the gold in the Janashia National Museum.

Sitting on the balcony on a summer or fall evening, as temperatures slowly fall, is delightful. A lot of Georgians move their beds to the balconies in the summer, to escape the sweltering heat of the day. Today, September 13th, 2014, it is still 30+ Celsius.. Great if you arrive from Northern Europe, where I have already taken out my sheepskin slippers out..
so pretty

A mixture of ancient, very ancient, and very modern is what makes Tbilisi such an interesting place to visit. The Bridge of Peace is one of those examples that bridges modern and ancient, going from the park of Rike, with its ultra modern additions, to Kala, and the Charden district, or Old Town. The harmonious lines of the bridge do not alter the landscape, but rather....bridge it...
The bridge of Peace


This walk is not for the weak at  heart.
On the way to Betlemis Eklesia.














The beautiful golden statue of George 
slaying the dragon on the main plaza, 
called "tavisuplebis moedani", 
or Freedom Square. 
First, let's take the metro. Wow, scary, dude!! In order to get to that first step down..or up, obviously, you will need to buy a card that will allow you to go through the turnstile. The cards are available for a couple of laris (GEL) and you can refill it with cash anytime. Nowadays, some machine will refill your card at a sort of ATM. The first card is still usually bought at the desk in front of the dreaded steps. You can use your card for several people, it is not nominative. It used to be money was ok, but now the system is such that you can also use the card on all public transport systems, even the little marshrootkas/minibuses that go around town. Those, as I understand, will slowly disappear to make place for a more pollution-conscient alternative. Good, but then will it be ok to call it anywhere on the street like we can now? Don't know..
Anyway, the metro lines, for the most part, go deep within the ground. It is amazing. And...you can get in trouble with the person that is sitting watching traffic at the bottom of the elevator stairs. No pics, please! Why? Yeah, this is an "illegal" pic of an elevator.  :)


Wonderful fig trees and balconies
Lemontov avenue


Here is a link to an old part of Tbilisi, called Sololaki.
On Dadiani Street, close to Freedom Square, you can see some amazing old buildings. The one above is number 8. The wall paintings are very cool. The doors are usually open since it is an apartment house.
lovely statue on
Gudiashvili Square
amazing balconies




If you make to the top of the hill, here is what awaits you. 

ebony and ivory grapes,
a lovely arbor in front of Ateshgah 
Ateshgah is a zoroastrian temple


On the way up the hill, by way of Asatiani street
make sure to see the Betlemi churches.
Can you find the two churches on that hill?
Keep climbing...
 Zororastrianism! What a word! It is, as a matter of fact, one of the oldest religions in the world. Some of our Georgian friends are still adepts of this faith that venerates the sun. This fire temple, called Ateshgah, only open to people of this faith, is an ancient structure from the 5th or 6th century. It  was transformed into a mosque around the 17th Century, but is now back in the hands of the original followers of this faith.
It is worth climbing to see it, because the way up is also a beautiful walk..

Jvaris Mama Church, at the bottom of the hill
on Ierusalimi Street
On the way back down, admire Jvaris Mama Church and Sioni. Both are very important churches in the hearts of the Georgians Orthodox. Sioni is the most impressive. Small, but magnificent. Be aware that proper clothing is mandatory. No short sleeves, shorts, short skirts, or anything...short. The ladies also cover their heads before entering what can be called the holiest of holy in Tbilisi. Respect, please.
Many weddings happen in Sioni.
Charden Street is quickly becoming a tourist trap...
but it is pretty. 

Carpet store next to Sioni

Going across the Bridge of Peace and over gives you a fantastic view
of Rike Park and the Lower Caucasus Mountains
There are many areas worth visiting in Tbilisi. I recommend...all of them. The Office of Tourism can help you decide. They have absolutely all it takes to cater to all tastes. Take good sturdy shoes, as roads can be sometimes in poor state. The place is nothing but hills too, so, hills, yes...heels...no..
Happy tourism!

Of course! Was there a doubt?

 Contact Giga on his Facebook page 
for 
a fun travel time in Georgia.
or message us directly at:
Menu Voyage

Abanotubani, a sulfurous experience...



Grab your towel, we're going abanotubaning! Well, maybe not..

It's the year. I only made it to the door last year, and chickened out..This year, I am going to do it! Bath AND massage, please!
Only a week to wait...
Then, I will go eat some pilminis, right next door!
Abanotubani is a strange and inviting place to any foreigner in search of exotic pleasure and relaxation. 
But the ongoing thought in the Georgian population is that it is a place for prostitutes and ill-happenings. So, a Georgian woman who respects herself would not be caught dead there... I am having an ongoing discussion with my georgian family about even entering the dreaded place..and a woman does not enter alone, I am told. It remains to be seen if my towel will be even slightly moist with sulfurous waters.
All this, however, is a part if the culture and it explains why the majority of Georgians have never entered the place. With less than a week in Georgia, time is running short. To be continued..or not
A pretty view of the Abanotubani neighborhood.
The great steam vents in Abanotubani


Sulfur baths....Should be interesting!

This would be the place.

Now, you don't see that everyday..

Steam vents and balconies. What else could you ask for..
Come on it! The water is fine!!
Beautiful door...

What a great sight!

Needless to say, my towel is dry! Darn it anyway!



Contact Giga on his Facebook page 
for a fun travel time in Georgia.
or message us directly at:
Menu Voyage

Bread making in the Republic of Georgia: tonis puri, khatchapuri, nazuki, imeruli, or lobiani..


Bread making 


Artisanal tonay or bread oven, in Koda, Chida Kartli, Georgia
a fun bread bag..


late bread baking in Tbilisi

There is nothing more appealing to the senses than the smell of freshly baked bread, is there?
the dough is weighed and shaped for the tonay

the tonay is ready

The bread goes on the sides.
When baked, it will be collected before it has a chance to drop.

Bread's hot! Come and get it!
chotis puri
Whether you buy it, or you make it, the bread varieties available will astound you. It can be sweet, savory, filled with tarragon, my latest craze, or with cheese, or just...plain, of course! Most people buy their tonis puri in town, simply because they do not have the oven needed to make it, but in the country side, it is made in the family oven, usually set up somewhere outside. Either way, it is delicious..

When I arrived in Georgia in 2008, I couldn't believe that you could walk around town at 11pm, and the bakers were still in front of their ton-ay, baking tonis puri, "bread made in a tonay". You could get bread anytime of the day, really. Over the years, I have learned that frankly, the best bread is tonis puri, so hot you can't even hold it.


tonis puri in Koda, Georgia



khatchapuri adjaruli, or "from the region of Adjara" in SW Georgia

berdzenuli, or Greek bread, with blinis
Time for dinner!

This year, as we returned to Georgia, the little bakers seem to have regrouped and you can buy tonis puri, or berdzenuli puri, or "greek bread", in factories. Lucky for us, we live 2 minutes on foot from the nearest bakery, so the smell of bread baking is an all-day pleasure! Aa a French woman with an addiction for a crisp baguette, I must say that Georgian breads always deliver. Not once have I missed my boulangerie, but, of course, I wouldn't trade my "sandwiche jambon/beurre" with anyone at home!
So glad you came to visit. Please feel free to leave a comment.
Please contact Giga on his Facebook page for a fun travel time in Georgia. https://www.facebook.com/LuckyToursInGeorgia/


This link to our Facebook album to our latest trip to the Republic of Georgia in April 2014